Søe og Reit i Zim

On two wheels

 

After some days in kampala with Vibeke,Raymond, Jonathan and sebastian, reviving our family soccer matches from tree years ago in Helsingør before we left Denmark, we were back on the road. This time we managed the trip to Nairobi with out any punctures, but on alert all the time a bit paranoid from our troubles.

On our way we are constantly met by Un refugee camps. A reminder of the tension among the different tribes in Western Kenya, that and a new friend who told us that he couldn't go back to his home town near Kisumi, is proof of the ongoing trouble in Kenya.

 

Back in Kenya we head to Nakuru.

For the first time on our trip we managed to let go of the steering wheel. In exchange we rented 4 bicycles and went on a small trip in to Hells Gate national park.  Karl and Alfred, who had never tried to bike more than a couple of rounds in the garden in Harare , went on a 16 km long journey down a rough gravel road. In their own words this trip must surly be better than chimp trekking. With a helping hand here and there we managed. At the end we all agreed that we where as strong as the bikers we had seen on our way through the desert in northern Kenya. They had come from Nepal and where on their way to Cape town for a short visit before they would bike back to Spain.

1 Year and 4 month on the road. They must have tough skin on some body parts.

In Nairobi we spoiled ourselves with a hut at Upper Hill campsite. We have almost become family in the lovely house run by Jessi and Rich. Time for malls, cinemas and champions league final. Fantastic. I once again tried the pleasures of a two wheel ride. This time in the busy street of Nairobi. If you has survived it you can be sure that you will either die from lung cancer or an accident next time you go.

 

We are back in Dar with Pernille and have spent a day in the company of former soccer hero's of Tanzania.  At the national museum the where opening a new exhibition, our luck is that it is about soccer. A fair but slightly boring exhibition. This becomes a very interesting show. Suddenly half of the former National team walks in to se pictures of them selves back in the 50s, 60s and 70s.

Tomorrow we will start our drive towards the lake Malawi.

Uganda – an extreme change from the desert.

The drive from Nairobi to Uganda-Kampala went smooth. We managed to cross the border without any further delay, happy that we didn’t have to line up behind the 5 km row of trucks. Another 3 punctures on our old tyres and on the Chinese shit we bought in Moyale. At a roadside filling station we got them fixed only to puncture again 80 kms down the road. The spare tyre that had just been fixed started leaking, so another repair was needed. In Kampala once again we hooked up with MS friends. It is always fantastic when people open their homes to us. Karl and Alfred enjoy the mountains of lego with Jonathan and Sebastian, while we shared a bottle of wine and stories of the lives of ms development workers with Vibeke.

Uganda is as lush as you can imagine, but it doesn’t seem to have a great impact on the country's economy. It’s another example of the same ruler heading the state for far to long. Museveni had been in the seat for 23 years. I am sure he and his tribe has benefited.

 

We headed north to go on chimp trekking. A lovely ride through beautiful green landscapes. In Murchinson falls national park we found the eco tourist place where we would go trekking the next morning. Karl and Alfred allowed us to go, leaving them behind at the camp, well prepared with PSP´s, computers and Harry Potter books.

3 hours later we had seen several smaller groups of chimps. At one time we where completely surrounded by the primates who where screaming from all corners. Even though they where only five meters from us we only saw them in glimpse. Fantastic.

Further north we set camp by the Nile, ready for an afternoon ride down the Nile towards The falls. The banks of the river were packed with animals. The driver very good at getting the boat really close, unfortunately this resulted in a close encounter with a group of hippos. They jumped away from the boat running or what it is they do, for their lives. We all panicked, but they where probably more scared then us. Down the river we arrive at the falls, a bit disappointing for a group of former Zimbabweans. Notting beats Victoria falls.

On our way back to Kampala we pass the shores of Lake Albert, from there we  could see Congo in the distance, maybe a destination for future adventures.

Once again a bit in doubt of the way, we asked the ever present police at a road block. This time we got told that the road back to Masindi, the town where the tar mak would lead us back to Kampala, was really difficult. The nice officer kept us for a while for a short chat before he told us that to find our way we would have to go straight ahead until we reached our destination. In Uganda we have only been stopped by officers who where eager to chat with us. Not once have we been asked for drivers license or the likes. Really a positive experience as it has been with most people we have met in this our last stop towards the north before we go back towards Johannesburg

Yesterday we had to say goodbye to a member of our team, Stine, who had to go back to work in Denmark. Stine you have been the best travel companion we could wish for. Thanks for all the fantastic times we have had. We will miss the greeting of every donkey we have met, the constant soccer chats on the back seat,  the close relationship with our GPS and the enthusiasm about every living creature we have had close encounter with. Hugs from all of us.

Crossing two deserts twice for a one-day trip to Ethiopia.

North of Nairobi we pass the beautiful landscapes of Mount Kenya and Mount Meru, passing big farm lands that look like an area cut out of the biggest commercial farms in Europe or the States.

A couple of hours later we are in Isiola -a completely different setting. Desert landscapes dominate and people seem more Muslim than anywhere we have been yet. We are told that here they consider themselves Ethiopian. When heading to Nairobi, they say” going to Kenya”.  Camels, goats, cows and donkeys are everywhere. We know that we are now going to the deserts of northern Kenya, rumours of bandits”The Siftas” are many, but we have talked to travellers that say that it is a thing of the past. After a night in Isiola, at Lotte and Davids oasis (MS colleagues), with Danish homebake, lasagna, red wine, and some good advice on the road through the Kaisut desert to Marsabit, we head North, stucked up with water bottles to throw out for the cattle herders along the way. This, we where told, was the way to avoid trouble and they also told us never to stop.

Without too much trouble, we managed to get to Marsabit, our only scare was at the small village where they at the local “cooler box kiosk”  told us that a couple of weeks back, a truck had been shot at because it had refused to stop. Ok, no problem, we will stop. The tribes along the way, a mixture of Samburu, Randilles and Gabra, all nomads with camels and cattle.

 

Dressed prepared to war with spears and sticks, some should have AK47, luckily we didn’t meet any of the bad guys. In many ways people in this area are closely related to the Masais. The area has been known for fights between the different tribes, all related to the stealing of one anothers cattle. As usual we had a small chat with everyone we met about the British premier league. The common subject all over East Africa. And  we haven’t got any insider knowledge on how best to drain blod from jugular vain, so soccer it is.

 

Another great MS experience, we managed to hook up with Eva, another colleague who is placed in this far away corner of Kenya. Impressive to hear about her work and even more impressive to see how far out MS reaches. A brave women and a great host. Thanks. Karl and Alfred hooked up with the guard and Barak, a small boy who visits often, to play soccer, again a fantastic universal language.

 

From Marsabit to Moyale we had to cross the Chalbi desert, known for nothing but stones and heat. A nightmare for travellers with sore butts and a swollen eye. Malin drove the 250 km´s, the toughest we have done yet. 80 kms from Marsabit, we have the first puncture, knowing that we only had one spare tyre left for the rest of the journey.

 

20 km´s left to Moyale and another puncture. Wheel of, the last spare on and then of again.. ups the front tyre has a bubble and will most likely burst soon. Mads on the back of  a truck with the tyre, and the rest trailing after at low speed, trying to make it in to town. In Moyale we are releaved and gets the tyres fixed, while the goats watch. Karl and Alfred drums up the whole town for a soccer match, Alfred acting as Schmeichel.

In a few seconds the kids are so many that K and A retires to the car. Still the two blokes are closely marked by 40 kids with the nose against the windows. Scary for a person who is used to at least a couple of meters to breathe.

The town seemed drained for water, but we manage to find a small guest house with a shower and then went straight to bed. Next morning we wanted to proceed to Ethiopia.

This should become a very disappointing day. The Kenyans sent us across to check, they where quit sure that we couldn’t get in with out a visa. An hour later we had established that they where right. Contrary to all we had been told. You have to get visa in Nairobi, which now lies accross the two desserts. Hmm, who can we pay, who can we call. No way, after calling the embassy in Addis we found that there was nothing to do. Back to Nairobi. Meanwhile we had to get the best out of the time, taste the Khat, see an eye doctor (the picture in the picture folder will explain). Luckily there was an eye doctor in Moyale a town of mud huts and dirt roads. Pills, cream and eye drops should help. Quit the danish medication you are trying. Ok, i have no choice but to trust this desert doctor.

Meanwhile we had bought Chinese produced tyres that looked ok and almost fitted perfectly. The mecanic and the watching goats where at it again. With a better eye and two new tyres we where ready to challenge the desert.

 

Back in Marsabit we went to evas house, celebrating that the worst part was over we ordered take away from a hut down the road, really good food.

50 kms out of Marsabit the new China tyre start to sound funny. We all jump out to check. Ching Chong shit as we say in Zim. A peace of rubber has fallen off. We put on the old tyres and proceed. Another 10 kms down the road we suddenly get taken over by our own wheel and the drum. We all new that we where f..... . The left rear wheel on the ground and the tyres, nots and drum spread out in bandit country. Things could get scary. Luckely a car stops, the experienced desert driver explains how to deal with this. Put the tyre back on with out the drum and roll in to the nearest town, Laisamis, there you will find a mission with a workshop and a good mecanic. He helps us put the tyre on, but before he is done the Italian lady who he is driving insists that they have to go on. Bastards, five kms from help in bandit country, the driver finds some spare nots looks sad and says ”get out of here, its not safe”. Malin starts walking to town. Angry and scared i get the last not on while Stine, Karl and Alfred seems very calm under a tree. Its on, lets go. We roll off,  Stine hanging out of the window to check that the tyre is in place. At arrival in town, we meet Malin with an Italian father from the mission, Mohammed the mecanic, who they picked up in the towns only bar, it is still only 10 am. In tough times you are happy with any help, Mohammed should later prove to be our saviour.

We get in to the mission station, and immidiately Mohammed and his helper Salim starts jacking up the car. Tree studs are broken, what to doo. No problem. We will weld new ones on the back. Hmm. A long day of monitoring and working closely with the guys enden with only one broken stud back and a tyre fitted somewhat ok. Next morning we were ready to go on, or we had to get to Nairobi to fix the car. A night without any sleep. I have never been as nervous as this in my entire life. Crossing a desert with bandits, on a tyre bolted on with what we could find and tools that you can buy better in a toy store. I had to send up the first prayer in my entire life. Ifthtis tyre flew off we would be in trouble.

To help us, Father Edward tells Mohammed and Salim to join us for the first 20 kms. Great. We head out and before we leve town they have offered to go with us to Isiola, bringing tools slightly better than ours.. Yeepeeh.

For 140 kms, we go at high speed. Mohammed says that the currogation will damage the car if we go slow. Every time we are in safe areas, we stop to check the bolts. The guys tell us stories about places where there supposedly often are bandit attacks. So we speed by several other people seemingly stuck on the road “don´t stop, Siftas” is the words from our saviours. Arriving at he tar road 20 kms from Isiola is the biggest moment yet. We all sing our favorit song about Jesus, not quite converted but close.

 Mohammed and S,alim a bit surprised but in full understanding of this, try to sing along.

 

The trip to Nairobi is pure pleasure. We are back at Upper Hill Campsite, tired and releaved.

The car is at Toyota and we a hoping to find our way to Uganda soon. The two hours in Ethiopia, which we where granted by the officials, were a lifetime expirience. When we were a bit up the road to find diesel, we got chased down by immigration officials in a Taxi. They thought we were making a run for it up to Addis. Ethiopia for a day is not recommendable. But it really seemed like a fantastic country. Hey but, you only need two hours. We even met a desendant of Hailey Sal lassie.

On our way back we passed the Maximum Miracle Centre at the Equator, I wonder what they do? Where they performing miracles when we passed?

 

 

In to the Wild

 

Arriving at the rim of the crater was as rewarding as expected. We had climbed to the top and then driven a bit down to the campsite. A stunning view met us. A hidden world inside the old volcano. We pulled out all our gear and set up a camp. Getting the fire going and putting on the kettle for coffee, while Karl and Alfred played soccer with the park rangers, it promised to be a couple of fantastic days in some of the worlds greatest wildlife parks.

 

The next morning we set out to find a walking rhino and some cats. A specific wish from Stine who haven´t lived in Africa, not that the rest of us had ever seen a leopard or a cheetah for that sake.

The walking part i wasn´t to sure about, would one of us have to get out and chase a rhino up on its legs?

The crater proved to be everything we could ask for – Cheetah's 3 meters from the car and several rhinos in action.

 Stine was hanging on the side of the car most of the time, with a camera in one hand and a happy face. A good start to our wildlife experience. After a day in this animal heaven next to the Masai's herding their cattle, and probably chasing a lion of with their stick every now and then, we headed of to Kenya. On our way we would stop for some days in Serengeti, but we weren't expecting to much after Ngorongoros super show.

The way to the gate was packed with animals, walking in a fantastic scenery. Wilder beast on the move, zebras, giraffes, and lions on honeymoon. With this introduction it was obvious that we had to spend at least two days there. After paying the park fees we went on. What had seemed unreal before suddenly became a doll field with  grass and no animals. But after a while it changed and we where again in the big fives territory.

The camp we had picked for our stay, was completely deserted, on top of that a ranger came and told us that a leopard lived in the Kopjes(rocks) next to the campsite. Five very scared mzungus fleet in to a cage that had been build as a dining room for campers. Sitting there we felt like a bunch of scary pants in a cage that the animals could come look at for a cheap laugh. Which probably was th reaction from the tour guides that came the next day. Karl and Alfred had to be escorted out when they needed to go. Team cage life scary pants.

Next morning we hunted leopards without luck for a day, hunting down guides when ever we came near a safari truck. Many good advises later and several hours of driving up and down we gave up and went home to our camp. Satisfied with the thousands of wilder beasts,a pride of lions and the leopards kill in a tree, ready to tjeck it out the next day. Back in the camp we where almost forced out our cage. The guides couldn't understand that white people only feel safe inside square things.

 

Next morning after three years in Africa i finally saw the leopard, Heehaw. A couple of hours later we saw the second in one day. He he. Ok they weren't that active, i am not sure they moved, but it was great.

On our way we had to climb out and tjek the dept of different mud holes, just to make our 4 wheel drive instructor back in Zim proud. Mcbailey we did as you told us. We managed to drive several hundreds meter sideways with our hearts pumping, who wants to get stuck in the big fives territory?

Our days in the wild thought us that there still are places where we haven´t taken complete control. This was proved by millions of ants that attacked a screaming and dancing to meter tall safari tourist, who had to get our of the car to inspect the road.

 

Our journey from Serengeti took us to the Victoria lake and then north east in to Kenya and up to Nairobi. The lake looked lovely, but stopped from swimming by the bilharzia, we moved on to the border.  A crossing that again went very smoothly, thanks to the handout of Zimbabwean 50 trillion dollar notes, which the immigration in Kenya fund hilarius, whit a nice chat and a laugh we proceeded in to Kenya. We do not like to bribe, but this can hardly be called bribing, the zim note is worth less than toilet paper.

Kenya a crowded and very busy place, people every where, roads in all directions, city planning is not a priority.

 

On our entire trip we have depended heavily on our GPS, it had all ways showed us the way, the flip side is that it sometimes takes you through arrears you really don´t want to be in. This time we ended up on a 1½ lane dirt road in the high density suburb with commuter buses on all side, almost stopping to look at the white man dressed in a Russian lam skin hat and sun glasses, trying to make his way through the rush our. I think it might have been what got us through. Many smiles and handshakes later we arrived at upper hill campsite. This has now been our home for 4 days, we have enjoyed the hospitality and homely feeling of Jessi and the others. Lots of good advises and clean cloth.  The kids, malin and Stine has been cuddling with cheetahs, giraffes and tjekking out Karen's old house. A well deserved break in civilization.

 

Now we are ready to move north to Ethiopia.